I was all set to start a different sweater. As soon as I received my copy of the Fall 2007 Interweave Knits magazine and I saw Jared Flood’s Cobblestone Pullover, my plans changed. I love this sweater for its simple elegance. The tweed-like quality of Vermont Organic Fiber Company’s O~Wool™ Balance is a terrific substitute yarn for this pattern. The color I am using is Lapis.
If you are thinking that you would like to use the O~Wool™ Balance for this pattern, you need to be aware that it is a slightly lighter weight than that specified in the pattern. The pattern calls for a gauge of 18 stitches and 29 rows = 4 inches on US size 7 needles in stockinette stitch. The O~Wool™ Balance recommended gauge is 19 to 21 stitches = 4 inches on US size 5 to 7 needles.
I created many swatches to see the resulting fabric from different needle sizes. The swatch I liked best resulted from using US size 6 needles and I was getting a “post-wash” gauge of 21 stitches and 29 rows = 4 inches. I did the necessary calculations to account for my different stitch gauge that would result in a chest circumference of 43.5 inches. According to my calculations, I needed 228 stitches and the pattern has a size that requires 230 stitches. Life is sweet! That was so close, I decided to just follow the directions for that size. The sweater is made from the bottom up, in the round. I knit the first four inches, then I tried it on — it was huge! So, I started over, this time with 194 stitches, which the pattern specifies for my desired 43.5 inches. After knitting a few inches, I tried the new size on and it was still too big! So, I went down to the smallest size the pattern has, which calls for 176 stitches to be cast on. That one worked! The sweater body has no shaping and the chest has the garter stitch motif, the same as the first two inches of the bottom of the sweater, so I knew that the bottom of the sweater is just like the chest will be. The only thing that I can figure is that while the gauge is specified in stockinette, the wider garter stitches result in a bigger fabric. Moral of the story? Don’t wait until you are done to ensure you are getting the size sweater you desire! I am substituting the yarn and am actually using the pattern instructions for a size 39.5 inch chest circumference.
If you are making this sweater for yourself, try it on after the first few inches, then again after a few more. If you are making it for someone else, just measure the circumference. I recommend you do this whether you are substituting yarn or not. If you’ve never heard this tip before, you can try it on or measure the circumference by slipping 25% to 50% of the stitches to a spare circular and use rubber bands or point protectors on the ends of the needles to keep the stitches from slipping off. This allows the garment to expand to its actual size. Then try it on or measure it. If all is well, simply slip the stitches back to your original needle.
The picture below shows the first 4 inches or so. The sweater is made from the bottom up, in the round.
The last two photos are close ups that depict the garter stitch bottom border of the sweater; the garter stitch motif is carried up the sides of the sweater.
Tags: Knitting
